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Zoroaster, Brahma and Deva Temples, from the upper Grand View trail

Back from the Grand Canyon. Almost two weeks hiking in the Canyon plus a few days playing the tourist at the South and North Rims and at Phantom Ranch. Over 102 miles hiked. Just about every kind of weather except hot: hail and rain and snow, and temperatures ranging from chilly to warm. Good company at times, even some trails that seemed almost crowded, but also a good deal of almost unbroken solitude on other trails.

Angel's Gate, from the first campsite

Scenery ranged from spectacular to “merely” beautiful. Plus a lot of pretty wildflowers. Not the same sense of wonder as last time, but that was just because I had experienced that humbling sense of awe two years ago, so it didn’t amaze me in quite the same way this time. That said, the Canyon IS amazing, awesome and humbling, and always will be.

Zoroaster, from Lonetree

Overall, the hike was more arduous than I had anticipated … to the extent that one excursion (Clear Creek) was dropped in favor of a more restful day-hike out of Phantom. The longest day was 13.8 miles, with others of 12.3, 11.8, 11.6, 11.3, 10.1 miles, plus several days in the single digits. I never weighed my pack (I didn’t want to know!), but as my hiking companion has a weak back I carried nearly all the supplies and water … and believe me, there were times when that pack seemed to weigh a ton!

The hike was also a bit scary in places, mostly on the East Tonto where the trail spent some uncomfortable mileage right on the edge of the abyss, even as the trail seemed covered with marbles while simultaneously sloping sharply towards eternity. Not for the faint-hearted … but still doable if one proceeds with caution.

East Tonto trail near Grapevine Creek

In addition, the trail was pretty vague in places, so some route finding and hiking logic is pretty helpful.

Oddly, some of the most difficult stretches were scored on the best commonly available map as being of “moderate difficulty” while some of the stretches described as “difficult” or “expert” were comparatively easy. None of it was beyond the capability of somebody in reasonably decent physical condition.

Ribbon Falls

Water ended up being not as much of a problem as anticipated, thanks in large part to the comparatively cool weather. There were a couple of dry stretches which required hauling two days worth of water, but that worked out – as it happened, six litres/day were generally all that was needed on those days. (Although a good deal more was needed on the major climbs, some water was available along those trails.)

Almost decided not to take a trekking pole but decided to do so after all … and that was a wise decision. One doesn’t really need one on the corridor trails (Bright Angel, South and North Kaibabs) but it was a huge help on this hike.

Clouds above the Esplanade

Did take a camp stove, fuel and a pot to heat water for instant dehydrated backpacking dinners, but it turned out those weren’t needed, as a fuel pump failure prompted the realization that those meals work pretty well with just cold water. The dinners proved delightful, a real incentive for continuing on to the intended campsite. But the trail snacks that served for breakfasts, lunches and munchies got awfully boring – another time, a little more variety would be pretty welcome!

Each trail segment was distinctive, with its own pleasures and problems, so the next few blog entries will discuss each in succession.

Looking west

I hope you enjoy … and go experience the wonder and beauty of the Canyon for yourself!

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